A Little History: How the Rosse Buurt Began

Before the red lights, there were rosse ones. The Dutch word “Rosse Buurt” literally means “red neighborhood,” a name born from the warm glow of lanterns that marked entertainment houses centuries ago. Long before Instagram tours and bachelor parties, De Wallen was where sailors stumbled ashore after months at sea — hungry for food, music, and company.

Dating back to the 14th century, this was the city’s first true melting pot. Merchants sold spices, sailors traded stories, and locals saw opportunity in every open door. Over time, the trade shifted from cargo to comfort and the Rosse Buurt became a legend.

Fun fact: prostitution was tolerated as early as the Middle Ages, as long as it was taxed and regulated. That’s Dutch pragmatism for you.

More Than Meets the Eye

Behind the red-lit windows lies some of Amsterdam’s oldest history. The Oude Kerk; the city’s oldest surviving building, stands right at the center of De Wallen. Sailors once prayed here before voyages and confessed their sins after. Today, it’s a modern art space surrounded by the city’s oldest trade.

Just steps away, wander into the quiet courtyards like Bethlehemsteeg or Oudekerksplein, where the buzz softens and you can still hear the echo of church bells. That’s De Wallen in one breath: sacred and sinful, loud and lyrical, neon and nostalgia.

Respect the Ladies (and the Legacy)

The women behind the glass aren’t props, they’re professionals, business owners, and, in many cases, storytellers of a tough but empowering history.

No one tells that story better than Louise and Martine Fokkens, the famous twin sisters who worked here for over fifty years and wrote Ouwehoeren — a witty, raw memoir about love, labor, and laughter in the district. Their tales prove what Amsterdam has always known: this neighborhood is about more than sex. It’s about survival, sisterhood, and a stubborn sense of freedom. They were feminists before the word went viral, lingerie and all.

Exploring Like a Pro

If you’re visiting De Wallen, do it like an Amsterdammer: curious but chill. Skip the big rowdy groups and wander with respect and awareness.

Start at Café In ’t Aepjen on the Zeedijk — one of Amsterdam’s oldest brown cafés — for a jenever and a crash course in sailor folklore. Legend says the name (“In the Little Monkey”) came from the days when sailors sometimes paid their tabs with exotic animals.

If you’re walking through De Wallen, do it slowly — and with your eyes open in more ways than one. The narrow alleys glow with soft red light, laughter spills out of doorways, and every window tells a story you’ll never fully know.

You’ll pass women standing confidently behind the glass, each one running her own small business. They might wave, smile, or nod — but remember, this isn’t a show. It’s work. Keep your camera in your bag, make eye contact if you like, and walk with respect.

The further you wander, the more contrasts you’ll notice. One corner smells like sweet waffles, another like incense, and just when you think you’ve seen it all, a bell from the Oude Kerk reminds you that holiness and hedonism have shared this space for centuries.

Street-smart tips:

• Be aware of pick-pockets
• Do not take pictures of the ladies behind the windows, it is strictly forbidden.
• Don’t buy anything from anyone on the street — not “souvenirs,” not “bikes.” If it sounds like a deal, it’s definitely not.
• Don’t go alone late at night — bring a friend or join a local guide.

Museums, Myths & Must-Knows

Curious about the history behind the curtains? The Erotic Museum (Oudezijds Achterburgwal 54) gives you a cheeky peek into centuries of erotic art, from Greek pottery to vintage postcards. For something deeper, visit Red Light Secrets – the Museum of Prostitution (Oudezijds Achterburgwal 60). It’s housed in a former working brothel, and the stories inside are equal parts moving and eye-opening.

A Taste of Dutch Gezelligheid

Despite its reputation, De Wallen is surprisingly gezellig. Between the windows and the whispers, you’ll find lace-curtained cafés where locals chat about football, politics, and gossip that would make Rembrandt blush.

Order a bitterbal, some cheese cubes, and a jenever — this is the true Dutch nightcap. For the full edible experience, join one of our Dutch Food Tours, where we mix herring, history, and a little neighborhood mischief.

Between Shadows and Light

The Red Light District isn’t Amsterdam’s dirty secret — it’s its mirror. A reflection of the city’s age-old belief that freedom, work, and pleasure can coexist as long as there’s respect.

So take a walk through the Rosse Buurt, listen to the bells of the Oude Kerk, have a drink, and let the contradictions charm you.
Because in Amsterdam, even the wildest corners come with heart — and a sense of humor.